Last week, I shared my love affair with the city of Oaxaca. This week, I want to dive deeper into an event that stands out as one of the most unique spectacles I’ve ever witnessed.
Oaxaca is surrounded by artisan villages on all sides, each with its own charm and traditions. One such village is San Martín Tilcajete, renowned for its fascination with spirit animals and the fantastical carved and painted creatures known as alebrijes.
During Shrove Tuesday (aka Fat Tuesday), this usually serene artisan village transforms into a whirlwind of activity. A wild procession of devils and other beastly costumes meanders through the dusty roads. As this serpentine parade moves toward the town square, it gathers more revelers along the way. Eventually, the procession reaches the town center, where devils of all kinds dance and frolic in a mock wedding. It’s a wonderfully insane event, unlike anything I’ve ever seen.
So, why do these devils run free every year? In modern times, this event is linked to Christianity as a prelude to Lent. Fasting and repentance are central themes, making Carnival a final opportunity to eat, drink, and be merry. However, there’s a deeper, local aspect to this celebration. Spirit animals are integral to the people of San Martín, evident in their creation of alebrijes. The Zapotec people believe in guardian animals and have a zodiac similar to the Chinese zodiac. Therefore, the devils in the streets may not just represent evil but also the animalistic side of humans and their connection to the wild kingdom of beasts.
The event is a delight for anyone who enjoys parades, costumes, and music. A word of caution, though: it can get messy. Some of the devils (or “oily boys” as I call them) are covered in oil or paint. If you decide to join the dance, you might end up with the oily mark of the devil—a small price to pay for such a memorable experience.
So earlier this year I ran a retreat in Oaxaca during this mayhem. I am excited to announce I’ll be returning in 2025 and running a workshop that ties into the importance of spirit animals. Next years class is called Los Sagrados Animales - Inspired by the rich tradition of saints and santos, we’ll reimagine these sacred icons, infusing them with the concept of spirit animals and the essence of beasts that speak to our souls.
If you interested in taking a walk on the wild side you can learn more here. https://mijamatriz.com/michael-demeng-carnival/
